Surfing Interlude

Surfing Interlude
'Matt has been surfing since he was sixteen, and he taught me how to surf when I was in middle school I think... Maybe freshman year of high school, and we went out. I had my wetsuit on. I was so nervous, because I didn't wanna fall off. I didn't know if I could stand on the board and stay there. I had so much fun waxing the board, and like putting on the leash, and... I knew my dad was good at surfing, so I figured it must be in my genes. Until we went out, and we paddled out... I'd back out and be like 'Oh, I'll be ready for the next wave, like okay I'm gonna stand on this one. I know I'm gonna stand on this one... And, I stand up on the wave.'